The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Spaces
Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted stop. Close by, a police siren pierces the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers rush by falling apart, ivy-covered fencing panels as rain clouds form.
It is maybe the last place you expect to find a perfectly formed vineyard. But one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with plump mauve berries on a rambling garden plot situated between a line of historic homes and a local rail line just north of the city downtown.
"I've seen individuals hiding heroin or other items in those bushes," states Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your grapevines."
The cameraman, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He's organized a informal group of cultivators who produce wine from several discreet urban vineyards tucked away in private yards and allotments throughout Bristol. It is too clandestine to have an formal title yet, but the group's WhatsApp group is called Grape Expectations.
Urban Wine Gardens Around the Globe
To date, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the only one registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming global directory, which features better-known urban wineries such as the 1,800 vines on the hillsides of the French capital's historic artistic district neighbourhood and more than three thousand grapevines overlooking and within Turin. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a initiative reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has identified them throughout the world, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.
"Vineyards help cities stay greener and ecologically varied. They protect land from development by establishing long-term, productive farming plots within cities," says the association's president.
Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a product of the soils the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the weather and the people who care for the grapes. "Each vintage represents the beauty, local spirit, landscape and heritage of a urban center," adds the president.
Mystery Polish Grapes
Back in Bristol, the grower is in a urgent timeline to harvest the vines he cultivated from a cutting left in his allotment by a Polish family. If the precipitation comes, then the birds may take advantage to attack once more. "Here we have the mystery Eastern European variety," he comments, as he cleans bruised and rotten grapes from the shimmering bunches. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they're definitely hardy. Unlike premium grapes â Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and other famous European varieties â you need not treat them with chemicals ... this could be a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."
Collective Efforts Throughout Bristol
The other members of the group are also taking advantage of bright periods between showers of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden overlooking Bristol's glistening waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with barrels of wine from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is harvesting her dark berries from approximately 50 vines. "I love the smell of these vines. It is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a container of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you open the car windows on vacation."
Grant, 52, who has devoted more than 20 years working for charitable groups in conflict zones, inadvertently took over the grape garden when she moved back to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her household in 2018. She experienced an overwhelming duty to maintain the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This plot has already endured multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of natural stewardship â of passing this on to someone else so they can continue producing from the soil."
Sloping Vineyards and Traditional Production
Nearby, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has cultivated over 150 plants perched on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she notes, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Currently, the filmmaker, 60, is picking clusters of deep violet dark berries from lines of vines arranged along the cliff-side with the assistance of her child, her family member. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to Netflix's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after observing her neighbour's grapevines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can command prices of upwards of seven pounds a serving in the growing number of establishments focusing on low-processing vintages. "It is deeply rewarding that you can truly create quality, natural wine," she says. "It's very fashionable, but really it's reviving an old way of making wine."
"When I tread the fruit, the various wild yeasts come off the skins into the liquid," says Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, pips and red liquid. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but commercial producers add sulphur [dioxide] to kill the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced yeast."
Difficult Environments and Creative Approaches
In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who inspired Scofield to establish her grapevines, has gathered his friends to pick white wine varieties from the 100 plants he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who taught at the local university developed a passion for wine on annual sporting trips to France. But it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make French-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."
"My goal was creating Burgundian wines in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"
The unpredictable local weather is not the only problem encountered by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to install a fence on